Washer Recirculation / Wash Pump Not Working
Not every washer has a dedicated wash (recirculation) pump -- it is a feature found mainly on higher-efficiency top-load and front-load models designed to spray water and dissolved detergent back over the load during the wash portion of the cycle, improving cleaning in a low-water HE wash system. If your model does not have this feature, this symptom does not apply, and standing water or drainage problems point instead to the drain pump.
A failed wash pump usually shows up as clothes coming out with visible dry spots, detergent that does not appear to be dissolving or distributing, or a noticeably quieter wash cycle than usual, even though the machine still fills, agitates, and drains normally.
Because the recirculation pump is a separate component from the drain pump, testing the wrong one wastes time -- confirm which symptom you actually have (dry spots and undissolved detergent vs. standing water at the end of the cycle) before choosing which pump to check.
Safety first. Washer repair involves electricity, water under pressure, and moving mechanical parts.
- Unplug the washer (or shut off the breaker) before removing any panel or touching internal components.
- Shut off both water supply valves behind the machine before disconnecting any hose, valve, or fitting.
- Call a licensed technician for anything involving a sealed system or the home's mains wiring, or if you are not confident identifying or safely accessing a part.
Take a photo of any wiring or hose routing before disconnecting it, and set screws and small parts aside in the order removed -- this alone prevents most reassembly mistakes.
Most Likely Causes
- Recirculation pump motor failed — The small Pump Motor (part 8535759) dedicated to recirculation is a lower-torque, lower-flow motor than the main drain pump, and can fail independently of it. How to check: with the washer unplugged, locate the recirculation pump (often mounted near the base of the tub, separate from the drain pump) and test its motor windings for continuity.
- Recirculation line or nozzle clogged — Detergent residue and lint can clog the smaller tubing and spray nozzle used for recirculation even when the main drain path is completely clear. How to check: trace the recirculation line from the pump to its outlet/nozzle and check for a visible blockage or kink.
- Wiring or connector to the pump loose — A loose connector at the recirculation pump can cut power to it while the rest of the machine runs normally. How to check: unplug the washer and reseat the wiring connector at the pump before testing the motor itself.
- Control board not activating the recirculation function — On some models the recirculation pump only runs during specific cycles (heavy soil, stain-fighting cycles); confirm you selected a cycle that actually uses it before assuming the pump has failed. How to check: consult your owner's manual for which cycles activate recirculation, and reselect one you know should trigger it.
Wash Pump vs. Drain Pump
These are two different components even though both are sometimes just called "the pump." The drain pump removes all the water from the tub at the end of a cycle and runs at high enough flow to empty the tub in a couple of minutes; the recirculation/wash pump runs during the wash step at a much lower flow, spraying water back over the load rather than draining it. If your washer has standing water left in the tub at the end of the cycle, see Drain Pump Clogged instead of this page.
Tools You Will Need
Most of the checks on this page use the same basic kit: a Phillips and flat-head screwdriver set for opening panels, a multimeter set to continuity/ohms for testing switches and motor windings, a flashlight for looking inside the cabinet, needle-nose pliers for hose clamps and small connectors, and a shallow pan with a towel for any step that involves disconnecting a hose or opening the pump filter access door. None of the checks above require specialty tools. Photograph any wiring harness or hose routing before disconnecting it so reassembly matches exactly, and keep screws grouped by the panel they came from rather than in one pile -- washers use several different screw lengths, and mixing them up is a common cause of a rattle appearing right after a repair.
When to Call a Professional
Most of the parts and checks covered on this page are within reach of a confident DIY repair with basic hand tools and an afternoon. Call a licensed appliance technician instead if a check requires working inside a sealed system, if you find damaged household wiring beyond the washer's own power cord, or if the suspected part sits behind a transmission or tub assembly that requires substantially disassembling the cabinet and you are not comfortable reassembling it correctly. A second, paid diagnosis is also worth it any time you have already replaced one suspected part and the exact same symptom returns.
How to Confirm Before You Buy
Before ordering any replacement part, take a minute to confirm the fit -- it is the difference between a repair that works the first time and a part that has to be looked up twice.
- Find the model/serial plate. On a top-load washer it is usually under the lid, along the rim of the tub opening. On a front-load washer, check the back panel or around the inside of the door opening. See how to find your model number for exact locations by appliance type.
- Read the full model number exactly as printed, including letters and dashes -- manufacturers often reuse near-identical model numbers across different production years that take different parts.
- Verify the part fits that model using our model and part lookup tool before ordering, rather than relying on a part looking similar to the one you are replacing.
The full model number matters more than the brand and appliance type alone: manufacturers commonly reuse one body design across many model numbers over several years, changing the exact door latch, control board, or pump partway through that run. Two washers that look identical sitting side by side can still take different parts if their model numbers differ, even by a single trailing letter or digit.
Check Your Exact Model
Part numbers and how a symptom shows up can vary even within the same brand and appliance type, so confirm your exact model before ordering anything. Start from one of these washer model pages, or look yours up directly:
Use the model and part lookup tool if your model is not listed above.
Related Washer Symptoms
Browse the full list of 87 repair symptoms for every appliance type, or use the model and part lookup tool to search by your exact model number.