Washer Pump Not Working

"Pump not working" usually means the washer reaches the drain or spin step and nothing happens -- no hum, no water movement, and the tub stays full. Before ordering a pump, it helps to know that on many washers the pump will not even attempt to run unless the control board first sees a locked door or lid, so a switch problem can look exactly like a dead pump.

Listen closely at the point in the cycle where the pump should run. A pump that hums or buzzes but does not move water is usually jammed, not electrically dead. A pump that makes no sound at all is either not receiving power (switch, fuse, or wiring) or has failed internally.

This page covers the pump generally; if the pump runs but water is not clearing because of a clog, see the more specific drain pump clogged guide instead.

Safety first. Washer repair involves electricity, water under pressure, and moving mechanical parts.

Take a photo of any wiring or hose routing before disconnecting it, and set screws and small parts aside in the order removed -- this alone prevents most reassembly mistakes.

Most Likely Causes

  1. Debris jammed in the pump impeller — Coins, buttons, and small items reach the pump housing and jam the impeller so the motor hums but cannot turn. How to check: unplug the washer, open the pump filter access door, and check for anything blocking the impeller visible through the filter opening.
  2. Drain pump motor failed — The Pump Motor (part 8535760 or 8535759, depending on model) itself has worn out or its windings have opened. How to check: with the washer unplugged, disconnect the pump's wiring and test the motor windings for continuity with a multimeter -- no continuity means the motor has failed.
  3. Lid switch or door latch not signaling closed — Many washers block the pump entirely if the control board does not see the lid or door as locked, which looks identical to a dead pump from the user's side. How to check: test the lid switch or door latch, such as the Catch (part 690081) or Strike (part 696144) assembly, for continuity while manually holding it closed.
  4. Drive belt disconnected (belt-driven pump models) — On older top-load washers where the pump is driven off the main motor belt rather than its own motor, a broken or slipped belt stops the pump along with the drum. How to check: open the cabinet per your model's service path and confirm the belt is still looped around both pulleys and is not cracked or glazed.
  5. Wiring harness or control board fault — Least common. A damaged wire between the control board and the pump, or a failed relay on the board itself, prevents power from ever reaching a good pump. How to check: with the washer unplugged, check the harness connector at the pump for a loose or corroded pin before suspecting the board.

Hum vs. Silence

A pump that hums for a few seconds and then the machine trips a fault code is usually jammed or seized -- clear the impeller first. A pump that never makes a sound points upstream to the switch, fuse, wiring, or board rather than the pump itself.

Tools You Will Need

Most of the checks on this page use the same basic kit: a Phillips and flat-head screwdriver set for opening panels, a multimeter set to continuity/ohms for testing switches and motor windings, a flashlight for looking inside the cabinet, needle-nose pliers for hose clamps and small connectors, and a shallow pan with a towel for any step that involves disconnecting a hose or opening the pump filter access door. None of the checks above require specialty tools. Photograph any wiring harness or hose routing before disconnecting it so reassembly matches exactly, and keep screws grouped by the panel they came from rather than in one pile -- washers use several different screw lengths, and mixing them up is a common cause of a rattle appearing right after a repair.

When to Call a Professional

Most of the parts and checks covered on this page are within reach of a confident DIY repair with basic hand tools and an afternoon. Call a licensed appliance technician instead if a check requires working inside a sealed system, if you find damaged household wiring beyond the washer's own power cord, or if the suspected part sits behind a transmission or tub assembly that requires substantially disassembling the cabinet and you are not comfortable reassembling it correctly. A second, paid diagnosis is also worth it any time you have already replaced one suspected part and the exact same symptom returns.

How to Confirm Before You Buy

Before ordering any replacement part, take a minute to confirm the fit -- it is the difference between a repair that works the first time and a part that has to be looked up twice.

  1. Find the model/serial plate. On a top-load washer it is usually under the lid, along the rim of the tub opening. On a front-load washer, check the back panel or around the inside of the door opening. See how to find your model number for exact locations by appliance type.
  2. Read the full model number exactly as printed, including letters and dashes -- manufacturers often reuse near-identical model numbers across different production years that take different parts.
  3. Verify the part fits that model using our model and part lookup tool before ordering, rather than relying on a part looking similar to the one you are replacing.

The full model number matters more than the brand and appliance type alone: manufacturers commonly reuse one body design across many model numbers over several years, changing the exact door latch, control board, or pump partway through that run. Two washers that look identical sitting side by side can still take different parts if their model numbers differ, even by a single trailing letter or digit.

Check Your Exact Model

Part numbers and how a symptom shows up can vary even within the same brand and appliance type, so confirm your exact model before ordering anything. Start from one of these washer model pages, or look yours up directly:

Use the model and part lookup tool if your model is not listed above.

Related Washer Symptoms

Browse the full list of 87 repair symptoms for every appliance type, or use the model and part lookup tool to search by your exact model number.