Washer F31 Error Code

F31 is a fault code seen on Whirlpool-family top-load washers (including some Maytag and Kenmore models built on the same platform) that generally points to a problem in the drain pump circuit -- the control board has detected that the pump is not responding the way it expects, either electrically or mechanically.

Because F31 is specific to the drain circuit, treat it as a more targeted version of a "won't drain" complaint rather than a separate problem: the same causes that stop a washer from draining are what trigger this code, but the code narrows your starting point directly to the pump and its wiring instead of the door latch or belt.

Exact fault code meanings can vary slightly between model years and platforms, so also check your specific model's use-and-care guide, but the drain circuit is the correct starting point for F31 on the large majority of machines that display it.

Safety first. Washer repair involves electricity, water under pressure, and moving mechanical parts.

Take a photo of any wiring or hose routing before disconnecting it, and set screws and small parts aside in the order removed -- this alone prevents most reassembly mistakes.

Most Likely Causes

  1. Drain pump jammed with debris — The same coins, buttons, and small items that clog any drain pump can also trip this fault if the pump strains hard enough against the blockage. How to check: open the pump filter access door and clear any debris before checking anything electrical.
  2. Drain pump motor failed — The Pump Motor (part 8535760) itself has failed or its windings have opened, so the board never sees the expected response when it commands the pump to run. How to check: with the washer unplugged, test the pump motor for continuity with a multimeter.
  3. Wiring harness or connector fault at the pump — A loose, corroded, or damaged connector between the control board and the pump interrupts the signal path even with a good pump. How to check: unplug the washer and inspect the harness connector at the pump for corrosion or a bent pin.
  4. Drain hose kinked or blocked — Not a pump failure at all, but the pump straining against a blocked hose can trip the same fault code. How to check: check the full length of the drain hose for a kink or a clog at the standpipe connection.
  5. Control board — Least common; after the pump, wiring, and hose all test normal, the board's drain-circuit output itself may have failed.

How to Clear the Code

Clearing F31 typically requires unplugging the washer for about a minute (or running a reset sequence specific to your model) after the underlying cause has been fixed -- the code itself does not go away just from fixing the pump if the control board needs a power cycle to reset its fault memory.

Tools You Will Need

Most of the checks on this page use the same basic kit: a Phillips and flat-head screwdriver set for opening panels, a multimeter set to continuity/ohms for testing switches and motor windings, a flashlight for looking inside the cabinet, needle-nose pliers for hose clamps and small connectors, and a shallow pan with a towel for any step that involves disconnecting a hose or opening the pump filter access door. None of the checks above require specialty tools. Photograph any wiring harness or hose routing before disconnecting it so reassembly matches exactly, and keep screws grouped by the panel they came from rather than in one pile -- washers use several different screw lengths, and mixing them up is a common cause of a rattle appearing right after a repair.

When to Call a Professional

Most of the parts and checks covered on this page are within reach of a confident DIY repair with basic hand tools and an afternoon. Call a licensed appliance technician instead if a check requires working inside a sealed system, if you find damaged household wiring beyond the washer's own power cord, or if the suspected part sits behind a transmission or tub assembly that requires substantially disassembling the cabinet and you are not comfortable reassembling it correctly. A second, paid diagnosis is also worth it any time you have already replaced one suspected part and the exact same symptom returns.

How to Confirm Before You Buy

Before ordering any replacement part, take a minute to confirm the fit -- it is the difference between a repair that works the first time and a part that has to be looked up twice.

  1. Find the model/serial plate. On a top-load washer it is usually under the lid, along the rim of the tub opening. On a front-load washer, check the back panel or around the inside of the door opening. See how to find your model number for exact locations by appliance type.
  2. Read the full model number exactly as printed, including letters and dashes -- manufacturers often reuse near-identical model numbers across different production years that take different parts.
  3. Verify the part fits that model using our model and part lookup tool before ordering, rather than relying on a part looking similar to the one you are replacing.

The full model number matters more than the brand and appliance type alone: manufacturers commonly reuse one body design across many model numbers over several years, changing the exact door latch, control board, or pump partway through that run. Two washers that look identical sitting side by side can still take different parts if their model numbers differ, even by a single trailing letter or digit.

Check Your Exact Model

Part numbers and how a symptom shows up can vary even within the same brand and appliance type, so confirm your exact model before ordering anything. Start from one of these washer model pages, or look yours up directly:

Use the model and part lookup tool if your model is not listed above.

Related Washer Symptoms

Browse the full list of 87 repair symptoms for every appliance type, or use the model and part lookup tool to search by your exact model number.