How to Install Refrigerator Compressor Overload and PTC Start Relay WR09X10107 in a GE Refrigerator
Quick answer: Unplug the GE refrigerator, pull it out and remove the lower rear panel. Unclip the cover on the side of the compressor, unplug the connector and pull the old relay straight off the three pins. Push WR09X10107 fully onto the pins, reconnect, refit the cover, wait five minutes and plug in.
The compressor on a GE refrigerator cannot start on its own. A small block plugged onto the three pins on its side, made up of a PTC start relay and an overload protector, feeds the start winding for a moment and then cuts it out, and opens the circuit if the compressor overheats. Part WR09X10107 is that combined start device. It fits side-by-side and top-freezer models including the PSC23NGSBCC, GSS25WGPJBB, ESF25KGTBBB and GSS23WGSBBB, and it consolidates a long list of earlier numbers such as WR55X10942, WR87X20798 and WP2156003.
The tell-tale failure is a refrigerator that is warm inside while the compressor hums for a few seconds, clicks, goes quiet and tries again a couple of minutes later. Sometimes the relay rattles when you shake it because the PTC pill has broken up, or you find a scorched connector. This is a fast repair once the fridge is pulled out, and the part itself simply pushes on. The trick is to get the food covered, move the refrigerator without tearing the water line, and give the compressor time to equalize before restarting.
See part details and every compatible model: WR09X10107
- Unplug the refrigerator before removing the access panel; the compressor terminals carry line voltage and the relay may be hot.
- Let the compressor cool for at least fifteen minutes if it has been cycling; the housing and relay get hot enough to burn.
- Wear gloves. The rear panel and condenser coil fins are sharp.
- Move the refrigerator carefully if it has a water line or ice maker supply; kinking or pulling the tube causes a leak.
- Do not bypass the overload protector to test the compressor; it is the only thing preventing a motor burnout.
Tools and Parts You Need
- 1/4-inch nut driver for the rear access panel screws
- Flat-blade screwdriver to release the relay cover clip
- Needle-nose pliers for a stuck relay
- Flashlight
- Multimeter for checking the old relay (optional)
- Work gloves
- Cooler or bags for perishable food
- Furniture sliders or a helper to move the refrigerator
Step-by-Step Installation
- Prepare and disconnect Move perishable food to a cooler. Unplug the refrigerator and shut off the water supply if an ice maker line is connected.
- Pull the refrigerator out Roll the unit forward far enough to stand behind it, feeding the water line and cord as you go. Sliders under the front legs help on tile or wood.
- Remove the rear access panel Remove the screws holding the cardboard or metal panel at the lower rear and set it aside. The compressor is the black dome on the right or left side, with the condenser fan next to it.
- Expose the start device Find the plastic cover on the side of the compressor. Press or pry the spring clip that holds it and lift the cover off. The relay and overload block is now visible on the compressor pins with a wiring connector attached.
- Disconnect and remove the old relay Unplug the wiring connector from the relay. Grip the relay body and pull it straight off the three pins; rock gently with the pliers if it is stuck. Do not bend the pins.
- Inspect the pins Look at the three compressor pins for corrosion or burn marks. Wipe them clean with a dry cloth. Burned pins mean the compressor itself may be failing.
- Install WR09X10107 Align the new device with the pin pattern and push it on squarely until it seats fully. Plug the wiring connector back in and confirm it clicks.
- Reassemble and wait Refit the relay cover with its clip, reinstall the rear panel, push the refrigerator back and reconnect water. Wait at least five minutes before plugging in so the refrigerant pressures equalize.
- Start and verify Plug in and listen. The compressor should start within a few seconds with a smooth hum, and the condenser fan should run. Check that the freezer begins cooling within an hour.
Fit Checks Before You Call the Job Done
- The relay sits flush on the compressor with all three pins engaged and no rocking.
- The wiring connector is fully latched onto the relay.
- The plastic cover and spring clip are back in place so the relay cannot vibrate loose.
- The compressor starts on the first attempt and does not click off.
- The condenser fan turns and the coil begins to warm within minutes.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Plugging in immediately Restarting a compressor against high head pressure can trip the new overload on the first try. Give it five minutes.
Forcing the relay on at an angle A bent compressor pin cannot be fixed. Align the device before pushing.
Ignoring a burned connector A scorched harness connector will not carry current reliably. Replace or repair it while you are there.
Replacing the relay for a dirty condenser A coil clogged with dust overheats the compressor and trips the overload. Vacuum the coil before blaming the relay.
Leaving the cover off Without the cover, vibration can work the relay off the pins over time.
Troubleshooting After Installation
Compressor still clicks and will not run Check the pins for burn marks and test the compressor windings; a shorted or open winding means the compressor, not the relay, is the problem.
Compressor runs but the fridge does not cool The relay was not the fault. Check the condenser fan, evaporator fan and the defrost system.
Overload trips after several minutes Clean the condenser coil and make sure the condenser fan is running; the overload is doing its job.
Buzzing from the rear after the repair The relay cover or rear panel is loose. Reseat the cover clip and panel screws.
Care Tips After the Repair
- Vacuum the condenser coil and fan every six months to keep the compressor cool.
- Keep several inches of clearance behind the refrigerator for airflow.
- If the fridge starts clicking again, stop using it and test before the compressor is damaged.
- Avoid frequent power cycling; each hard start stresses the relay.
Compatible Models (Sample)
This part is listed for 43 GE models in our fitment data. Always confirm your exact model number on the appliance's rating plate.
Replaces or is replaced by: 02-223, 131835-03, 2090919, 363-94182-002, 7024160, 951-14151, W11122869, WP2156003
Repair Difficulty and Time
Difficulty: Easy. Typical time: 20 to 40 minutes.
Frequently Asked Questions
Which GE refrigerators use WR09X10107?
It fits many GE side-by-side and top-freezer models such as the PSC23NGSBCC, PSC23NHSABB, PST26NGPCCC, GSS25WGPJBB and GSS25IFRFBB.
My old part was WR55X10942. Is this the right replacement?
Yes. WR09X10107 replaces WR55X10942 along with WR87X20798, WR30X10093, WR55X24064 and other earlier numbers.
How can I tell the relay is bad and not the compressor?
A rattling relay or one that reads open on a meter is bad. If the new relay also clicks off, test the compressor windings for continuity and shorts to ground.
Do I need to remove the refrigerant or the compressor?
No. The start device plugs onto the outside of the compressor. No sealed-system work is involved.
Final Checklist
- Food moved and refrigerator unplugged
- Water line shut off and unit pulled out
- Rear access panel removed
- Relay cover unclipped and connector unplugged
- Old relay pulled straight off and pins inspected
- WR09X10107 seated fully and connector latched
- Cover and panel refitted
- Five-minute wait, then compressor start verified