Whirlpool Washer won't drain
Quick answer: A washer that won't drain leaves the tub full of water at the end of the cycle and usually refuses to spin as well. In most cases the cause is a blocked drain pump filter, a kinked or clogged drain hose, or a drain pump that has failed or has something jammed in its impeller.
- Unplug the washer before touching the pump, hoses, or any wiring.
- Have towels and a shallow pan ready; the tub and pump filter can hold several gallons of water.
- Never bypass the lid switch or door lock to force a drain with the tub open.
Why won't my washer drain?
A washer that won't drain leaves the tub full of water at the end of the cycle and usually refuses to spin as well. In most cases the cause is a blocked drain pump filter, a kinked or clogged drain hose, or a drain pump that has failed or has something jammed in its impeller. Less often the lid switch, door lock, or control board is stopping the drain cycle from starting.
Our fitment data covers 9,520 Whirlpool washer models and 4,044 Whirlpool washer parts, so the part links below are filtered to this brand; always confirm your model number before ordering.
Most Likely Causes, in Order
1. Clogged drain pump filter or coin trap
Front-load and many newer top-load washers have a filter in front of the drain pump that catches coins, hair ties, socks, and lint. When it packs full, water can no longer reach the pump impeller.
How to check: Open the small access door at the bottom front of the washer. Place a pan under the filter cap, turn it counterclockwise, and let the water drain. Pull the filter out and look for debris packed around it or inside the pump housing.
Fix: Clean the filter and the pump cavity, reach in and spin the impeller by hand to confirm it turns freely, then reinstall the filter hand tight and run a drain and spin cycle. (Difficulty: Easy)
Matching Whirlpool parts:
- Washer Drain Pump Filter Cap Seal WP8181736 — $25.66 – $37.64 · 55 models
- Washer Drain Pump Filter Cap W10365898 — $18.51 · 36 models
- Crosley Washer Drain Pump Filter Cap Seal W10365899 — $27.95 · 10 models
2. Kinked, clogged, or improperly installed drain hose
The drain hose can crush against the wall, collect lint and sludge at its lowest bend, or be pushed too deep into the standpipe, which creates a siphon or airlock the pump cannot overcome.
How to check: Pull the washer away from the wall and inspect the full length of the hose for kinks or flattened spots. Disconnect it from the standpipe and blow or run water through it; it should flow freely. Confirm the hose goes no more than about 6 to 8 inches into the standpipe and is not sealed airtight.
Fix: Straighten or reroute the hose, flush out any blockage, and replace it if it is cracked or permanently collapsed. Secure it in the standpipe with the supplied hook or clamp at the correct height. (Difficulty: Easy)
Matching Whirlpool parts:
- Drain Hose with Clamp 285664 — $18.25 – $47.85 · 956 models
- Upper Drain Hose Clamp WP3357331 — $7.67 · 75 models
3. Failed drain pump motor
The drain pump is a small electric motor with an impeller. Its windings can burn out, the impeller can crack or separate from the shaft, or a hard object can jam it so it hums without pumping.
How to check: Start a drain or spin cycle and listen near the bottom of the washer. A loud hum with no water movement points to a jammed or seized pump; total silence suggests a dead motor or no power reaching it. With the washer unplugged, remove the pump and check that the impeller spins freely and is intact.
Fix: Clear any object jamming the impeller. If the impeller is damaged or the motor windings read open on a multimeter, replace the drain pump assembly. (Difficulty: Moderate)
Matching Whirlpool parts:
- Drain Pump & Motor 285990 — $97.79 · 73 models
4. Faulty lid switch or door lock
Most washers will not run the drain and spin portion of the cycle unless the control sees the lid or door as closed and locked. A failed switch or lock leaves the tub full even though the wash portion ran normally.
How to check: Notice whether the washer stops right at the point where it should drain and whether a lid or door indicator blinks. On a top loader, press the lid switch by hand and listen for a click. On a front loader, check whether the door locks with a solid clunk at the start of the cycle.
Fix: Test the switch or lock for continuity with a multimeter and replace it if it fails. Also check the strike on the lid or door, which can wear down and stop pressing the switch. (Difficulty: Moderate)
No Whirlpool part for this cause is in our catalog yet; search by your model number.
5. Failed water level pressure switch or clogged pressure hose
The control decides when the tub is empty by reading an air pressure switch connected to the tub by a thin hose. If that hose is clogged with scum or the switch sticks, the control may never see the tub as empty and behaves erratically during drain.
How to check: Locate the pressure switch on the top of the cabinet or under the console and follow its hose down to the tub. Remove the hose and blow through it gently; it should be clear. Blow lightly into the switch port and listen for a faint click as the contacts change.
Fix: Clean or replace the pressure hose and make sure it has no cracks. If the switch does not click or fails a continuity test, replace it. (Difficulty: Moderate)
Matching Whirlpool parts:
6. Control board not sending power to the pump
A burned relay or trace on the main control board can leave the drain pump with no voltage even though the pump and everything else are fine.
How to check: Only consider this after the pump, filter, hose, and switches check out. With the washer in a drain cycle, a technician can measure line voltage at the pump connector; no voltage with a good pump points to the board or its harness. Look for scorch marks on the board.
Fix: Reseat the harness connectors first. If the board shows burn marks or fails to power the pump, replace the main control board. (Difficulty: Advanced)
Matching Whirlpool parts:
- Electronic Control Board W10756692 — $240.58 – $300.18 · 212 models
- Electronic Control Board WPW10384846 — $326.70 – $332.88 · 47 models
- Washer Electronic Control Board WP8183251 — $439.59 – $671.20 · 44 models
Other Whirlpool parts the catalog tags for this symptom
- Washer Transmission Stem Seal WP8577376 — $7.96 – $12.51 (air leak; leaking; water leak)
- Gearcase Oil 350572 — $23.49 – $59.66 (won't agitate; won't spin)
- Inlet Hose - 5 FT WP89503 — $15.44 – $31.84 (fill; leaking; slow fill; won't fill)
- Hose Washer Kit 285452A — $5.37 – $9.71 (clogged; cracked; fill; leaking)
- SEAL W11095997 — $11.89 – $28.32 (air leak; leaking; water leak)
- Centerpost Bearing and Seal Assembly 285203 — $74.36 – $99.96 (leaking; water under washer)
Popular Whirlpool washer models
Confirm the model number on the rating plate before ordering. Each model page lists every compatible part.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I get the water out of a washer that won't drain?
Unplug the washer, then open the pump filter access at the bottom front and drain into a shallow pan, or lower the drain hose into a bucket on the floor so gravity empties the tub. Bail with a cup as a last resort.
Why does my washer hum but not drain?
A hum with no water movement usually means the drain pump impeller is jammed by a coin, bra wire, or sock, or the pump motor has seized. Clean the pump and spin the impeller by hand before replacing it.
Can a clogged house drain cause the washer not to drain?
Yes. If the standpipe or laundry sink backs up, water flows back into the washer. Remove the hose and pour a bucket of water down the standpipe; if it backs up, the house drain needs cleaning.
When to Call a Professional
Call a technician if the pump, filter, and hose are clear but the washer still will not drain, if you find water under the washer along with the drain problem, or if the control board appears burned. Front-load pump replacement that requires tilting the machine is best left to a pro if you cannot lift it safely.