Frigidaire Range: Surface Element Not Heating
Quick answer: One burner on an electric range stays cold, heats only partway, or works intermittently while the others are fine. On coil-top ranges the coil element itself and its plug-in receptacle are the two most common failures; on smooth glass cooktops the radiant element or its limiter is the usual cause.
- Surface elements run on 240 volts. Turn off the breaker before touching a receptacle, switch, or wiring; unplugging a coil element alone is not enough to make the switch wiring safe.
- Let the element and cooktop cool fully; a glass cooktop can stay hot long after the indicator light goes off.
- Replace a receptacle that shows any melting or arcing; a burned receptacle can ignite grease under the cooktop.
Why is one of my electric cooktop elements not heating?
One burner on an electric range stays cold, heats only partway, or works intermittently while the others are fine. On coil-top ranges the coil element itself and its plug-in receptacle are the two most common failures; on smooth glass cooktops the radiant element or its limiter is the usual cause. Next comes the infinite switch behind the knob, a burned wire at the switch or element, and on touch-control cooktops the control board.
Our fitment data covers 11,242 Frigidaire range models and 3,203 Frigidaire range parts, so the part links below are filtered to this brand; always confirm your model number before ordering.
Most Likely Causes, in Order
1. Coil or radiant element burned out
Like any heating element, the internal resistance wire eventually opens from thermal fatigue, or a boil-over causes a spot to arc and split. A coil that heats only at one section or a radiant element with a dark segment has an internal break.
How to check: On a coil top, unplug the cold element and swap it with a working one of the same size; if the problem follows the element, it is bad. Measure resistance across its two prongs: most coil elements read about 20 to 60 ohms, and an open reading confirms failure. On a glass top, turn off power, lift the cooktop, and measure the radiant element terminals the same way.
Fix: Replace the element. Coil elements simply plug in; radiant elements unscrew from the bracket under the glass and connect with spade terminals. (Difficulty: Easy)
No Frigidaire part for this cause is in our catalog yet; search by your model number.
2. Element receptacle burned (coil top)
The receptacle contacts that grip the element prongs weaken over time, causing arcing that burns both the contact and the prong. The element then heats only when pressed in a certain way, or not at all.
How to check: With power off, remove the element and look into the receptacle for burned, melted, or spread contacts. Check the element prongs for pitting. A good element that works in other receptacles but not this one confirms the receptacle.
Fix: Replace the receptacle. Most connect with two wires and a single screw under the cooktop; cut back any burned wire to clean copper and use the ceramic wire nuts supplied. Replace the element too if its prongs are pitted. (Difficulty: Moderate)
No Frigidaire part for this cause is in our catalog yet; search by your model number.
3. Infinite switch failed
The infinite switch behind each knob cycles power to the element to set the heat level. Its bimetal contacts burn or stick, so the element gets no power, stays on high regardless of setting, or never shuts off.
How to check: If the element and receptacle test good, turn off power, open the control panel, and find the switch behind the affected knob. Test continuity between the line and load terminals marked on the switch with the knob turned to high; no continuity means the switch has failed. Also look for a burned terminal on the switch.
Fix: Replace the infinite switch, moving each wire to the matching lettered terminal on the new switch. (Difficulty: Moderate)
No Frigidaire part for this cause is in our catalog yet; search by your model number.
4. Radiant element limiter or wiring failed (glass top)
Radiant elements include a built-in limiter that cuts power if the glass gets too hot. If the limiter fails open, the element is cold even though the hot-surface light and switch work. Burned spade terminals at the element are also common.
How to check: With power off, lift the glass cooktop and inspect the element terminals and wires for burning. Measure resistance across the element's main terminals; an open reading with an intact-looking coil usually means the limiter has opened.
Fix: Replace the radiant element, since the limiter is part of it, and repair any burned terminals with high-temperature connectors. (Difficulty: Moderate)
No Frigidaire part for this cause is in our catalog yet; search by your model number.
5. Cooktop control board output failed (touch controls)
Cooktops without knobs switch each element through a relay on a power board. A single failed relay leaves one element dead while the display still shows it on.
How to check: After the element and wiring test good, carefully measure voltage at that element's output on the board with the element turned on. No voltage means the relay has failed.
Fix: Replace the cooktop power or control board. (Difficulty: Advanced)
No Frigidaire part for this cause is in our catalog yet; search by your model number.
Other Frigidaire parts the catalog tags for this symptom
- Range Light Socket 316116400 — $42.79 – $60.82 (light intermittent; no light)
- Range Oven Door Lock Motor and Switch Assembly 5304528973 — $33.02 – $58.52 (intermittent operation; won't start)
- Ikea Range Oven Light Rocker Switch 5304527841 — $12.02 – $20.15 (intermittent operation; won't start)
- Frigidaire Range Surface Element Control Switch 316238-201 — $55.49 – $91.00 (burn; intermittent operation; won't start)
- Wire Harness 5304494425 — $52.14 – $73.45 (error code; intermittent operation; no power)
- Frigidaire Range Oven Control Board 5304518661 — $95.67 – $115.74 (error code; no power; not responding; won't start)
Popular Frigidaire range models
Confirm the model number on the rating plate before ordering. Each model page lists every compatible part.
Frequently Asked Questions
The element works only on high. What is wrong?
The infinite switch is failing. Its contacts are stuck closed so it can no longer cycle the element at lower settings. Replace the switch.
Can I clean the receptacle instead of replacing it?
If the contacts are only dirty, cleaning and slightly bending them back for grip can work. Any sign of melting, blackening, or brittle porcelain means it must be replaced.
All the surface elements are dead but the oven works. Why?
Elements need both 240 volt legs; the oven display runs on 120. One leg of the breaker or one wire at the terminal block has likely failed. Check the breaker and terminal block before suspecting any element.
When to Call a Professional
Call a technician if the element, receptacle, and switch all test good, if wiring under the cooktop is burned back to the harness, if a glass cooktop must be removed and you are not comfortable handling it, or if the control board needs replacement.