How to Install Ice Maker Temperature Sensor WR55X10545 in a GE Ice Maker

Quick answer: Unplug the ice maker, remove the front grille and lower access panel, follow the old sensor lead to the control board connector, unplug it, unclip the probe from the evaporator area, clip the new WR55X10545 in the same spot, reconnect, and run a harvest cycle.

The temperature sensor WR55X10545 is the thermistor probe that tells the control board how cold the evaporator of your GE ice maker is. The board uses that reading to decide when the ice slab is ready to harvest and when to stop the compressor, so a drifting or open sensor produces thin ice, no ice, or a unit that never shuts off. GE lists this part for 25 models, including ZDIS150ZSSE and ZDIC150ZBBD, and it supersedes codes like WX10X10007 and PM10X311.

The job is about reaching the sensor without disturbing the water system, seating the probe where the factory put it, and routing the lead away from the hot compressor. No refrigerant work is involved and no calibration is needed afterward.

See part details and every compatible model: WR55X10545

⚠️ Safety First
  • Unplug the ice maker or switch off its dedicated breaker before removing any panel. The control board and compressor circuit stay live whenever the cord is connected.
  • Shut the water supply valve behind the unit if you will be moving it out of the cabinet, so a bumped fitting cannot flood the floor.
  • Let the evaporator thaw for a few minutes before touching it; frozen metal edges cut skin and the ice slab can drop unexpectedly.
  • Wear work gloves. The condenser fins and the sheet-metal edges inside the base are sharp.

Tools and Parts You Need

  • Phillips and flat-blade screwdrivers
  • Quarter-inch nut driver or small socket set
  • Needle-nose pliers for the sensor clip and connector latch
  • Flashlight or headlamp
  • Multimeter to confirm the old sensor is out of range
  • Small zip ties to secure the new lead

Step-by-Step Installation

  1. Kill power and empty the bin Pull the plug or trip the breaker, then scoop out the ice and lay a towel in the bin. If the unit is hard to reach, slide it forward a few inches after closing the water valve.
  2. Remove the front grille Most GE undercounter ice makers have a snap-on or two-screw kick grille at the bottom. Pull it straight off to expose the condenser and the lower access panel.
  3. Open the lower access panel Remove the screws along the bottom edge and lift the panel away. The electronic control board, its harness, and the compressor compartment are now visible.
  4. Locate the sensor lead Trace the thin two-wire lead from the freezing compartment down to the control board. It normally passes through a grommet in the divider between the ice compartment and the machinery area.
  5. Unplug the old sensor Press the latch on the small connector at the board and pull it free by the plastic body, not the wires. Note the connector position so the new one goes back in the same header.
  6. Release the probe Inside the ice compartment, the probe tip is held to the evaporator or the cabinet wall by a spring clip or a molded holder. Squeeze the clip with needle-nose pliers and slide the probe out, then feed the lead back through the grommet.
  7. Install WR55X10545 Feed the new lead through the same grommet, seat the probe tip in the clip exactly where the old one sat, and make sure the metal end touches the surface it is meant to read. Plug the connector into the board until the latch clicks.
  8. Route and secure the lead Zip-tie the lead along the original path away from the compressor discharge line and the fan blade. A lead resting on hot copper will read warm and confuse the board.
  9. Close up and test Reinstall the access panel and grille, open the water valve, restore power, and let the unit run through a full freeze and harvest. Ice should release cleanly on its own.

Fit Checks Before You Call the Job Done

  • The new probe seats in the factory clip with the sensing tip touching the same surface as the old one.
  • The connector clicks fully home on the board header and is not seated one pin off.
  • The lead has slack at the grommet and does not rub any moving or hot part.
  • Access panel and grille sit flush with no wire pinched at the edge.
  • Compressor and fan start normally when power is restored and a harvest completes within the usual cycle time.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Leaving the probe hanging in the air A sensor that is not clamped to the evaporator reads the air temperature instead of the metal, so the board harvests early and you get thin, wet ice.

Pulling the connector by the wires The crimped pins are small; yanking on the wires can pull one back and give an intermittent open circuit that looks like a bad new part.

Routing the lead over the compressor Heat from the discharge line raises the reading and can also melt the insulation over time.

Skipping the multimeter check on the old part If the old sensor reads normally and changes resistance as it warms, the fault is probably the board, the water valve, or the harvest solenoid, not the probe.

Troubleshooting After Installation

No ice at all after the swap Verify the connector is fully latched and the water valve is open. Watch for water entering the freezing plate at the start of the cycle.

Ice is thin or comes out in a wet slab Check that the probe tip is firmly against the evaporator and that the clip is not bent open. Reposition and rerun a cycle.

Unit runs nonstop and the slab gets very thick The board is not seeing the cold reading. Confirm the lead was not damaged when it was fed through the grommet and that the probe is not resting against the cabinet insulation.

Care Tips After the Repair

  • Clean the condenser fins behind the grille twice a year so the unit does not run hot and stress the sensor circuit.
  • Run a descaling cycle with the manufacturer-approved cleaner when ice gets cloudy or small.
  • Keep the drain line clear so melt water does not back up onto the harness in the base.

Compatible Models (Sample)

This part is listed for 25 GE models in our fitment data. Always confirm your exact model number on the appliance's rating plate.

Replaces or is replaced by: PM10X311, WX10X10007, WX10X10008, WX10X10013

Repair Difficulty and Time

Difficulty: Moderate. Typical time: 30 to 60 minutes.

Frequently Asked Questions

Does the new sensor need calibration?

No. WR55X10545 is a fixed thermistor; the control board reads it directly once power is restored.

Can I test the old sensor before ordering?

Yes. Unplug it and measure resistance with a multimeter, then warm the tip in your hand. The reading should change steadily. A reading that stays fixed, or shows open, points to a failed sensor.

Is this part the same as WX10X10013?

WR55X10545 replaces WX10X10013, WX10X10007, WX10X10008, and PM10X311, so it fits the same machines.

Do I have to pull the ice maker out of the cabinet?

Usually not. The grille, access panel, and control board are all reachable from the front on models like ZDIS150WSS. Pull it out only if the grommet is hidden behind the side.

Final Checklist

  • Power off and water valve closed before opening the unit
  • Old sensor tested and confirmed faulty
  • New WR55X10545 probe clipped in the original position
  • Connector latched on the correct board header
  • Lead secured away from heat and the fan
  • Panels reinstalled without pinched wires
  • Water valve reopened and a full harvest cycle observed

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