How to Install Frigidaire Range Surface Element Control Switch 316436001 in a Kenmore Range
Quick answer: Shut off the range breaker, pull the knob and open the rear cover of the backguard. Photograph the wires on the old switch, move them one at a time to the matching terminals on 316436001, unscrew the old switch and mount the new one in its place. Refit the knob, restore power and test low to high.
Every coil or radiant burner on a Kenmore electric range is run by its own surface element control switch, the part behind the knob that cycles power to the element to hold the heat you dial in. Part 316436001 is the Frigidaire-made switch used on Kenmore ranges such as the 79094229407 and 79094432701 as well as Frigidaire models like the FEFL77ASH, and it replaces the older numbers 316021501 and 5304506425. A switch is bad when one burner will not heat while the others do, when it only works on high, when the knob feels loose or gritty, or when the indicator light stays on with the knob off.
This repair is wiring work inside the backguard, so the range must be dead at the breaker before you open anything. The switch itself is held by two screws from the front of the control panel and has spade terminals on the back. The whole job is moving wires from old to new in the right order and checking that the knob shaft is oriented correctly. Plan for under an hour, and take a clear photo of the old switch before you touch a single wire.
See part details and every compatible model: 316436001
- Turn off the range at the breaker and confirm with a meter at the switch terminals that no voltage is present; range circuits carry enough power to kill.
- Do not rely on the knobs being off. The switch terminals are live whenever the breaker is on.
- Wear gloves. The backguard panels and switch bracket have sharp stamped edges.
- Pull the range away from the wall carefully if it has an anti-tip bracket; do not let it tilt forward.
- Never move wires two at a time. Swapped terminals can send full power to the element with no control.
Tools and Parts You Need
- Phillips screwdriver
- 1/4-inch nut driver for the backguard rear panel
- Needle-nose pliers for spade terminals
- Phone or camera for wiring photos
- Painter's tape and marker for labeling wires
- Multimeter to confirm power is off
- Work gloves
- Flashlight
Step-by-Step Installation
- Kill the power Switch off the range breaker at the panel. Turn a burner knob on to confirm nothing lights or heats.
- Open the backguard Pull the range forward enough to reach behind it. Remove the screws around the rear cover of the backguard and lift it off to expose the switches and wiring. On some models the front control panel tilts forward instead.
- Identify the switch Match the failed burner to its switch by following the knob position. Pull the knob straight off the shaft from the front.
- Photograph and label Take a clear photo of the wires on the old switch. Label each wire with tape marked to match the terminal letters stamped on the switch body.
- Move the wires With the pliers, pull one wire off the old switch and push it onto the same terminal on 316436001. Repeat one wire at a time until all are transferred. Each spade should seat fully and not pull off by hand.
- Swap the switch Remove the two screws holding the old switch to the control panel from the front. Position the new switch so its shaft passes through the panel with the flat side oriented like the old one, and drive the screws snug.
- Close up Push the knob onto the shaft and confirm the off position lines up with the panel marking. Refit the backguard cover and push the range back into place.
- Test Restore the breaker. Turn the knob to low and confirm the element warms gently and cycles; turn it to high and confirm the element glows fully. Check that the indicator light goes out when the knob is off.
Fit Checks Before You Call the Job Done
- Every wire is on the terminal that matches the old switch and photo.
- All spade terminals are fully seated and do not pull off by hand.
- The switch is screwed flat to the panel with no wobble in the shaft.
- The knob's off mark lines up with the panel and the knob does not rub.
- The element heats proportionally from low to high and the indicator light tracks the knob.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Working with the breaker on The terminals are live at full range voltage. Confirm the circuit is dead with a meter.
Moving wires from memory Two wires on the wrong terminals can run the element at full power with no control. Use the photo and labels.
Forcing a spade terminal A bent terminal makes a loose connection that arcs and burns. Align it before pushing.
Installing the shaft rotated If the flat on the shaft is off, the knob reads wrong and off may not be off. Match the old orientation.
Ignoring a burned wire end A discolored or brittle terminal will fail again. Cut it back and crimp a new spade before connecting.
Troubleshooting After Installation
Element does not heat at all Check that the element is fully plugged into its receptacle and test the element for continuity; the switch may not have been the fault.
Element only works on high Two wires are swapped on the new switch. Kill power and compare with the photo.
Indicator light stays on The pilot wire is on the wrong terminal. Move it to the terminal marked for the light.
Knob points to the wrong setting The switch shaft was installed rotated. Pull the knob and reseat it or reorient the switch.
Care Tips After the Repair
- Turn knobs gently; forcing a stuck knob damages the switch shaft.
- Keep boil-overs off the control panel; liquid running behind the knobs corrodes switch terminals.
- If a burner starts cycling oddly, replace the switch before it welds closed.
- Check element receptacles when you replace a switch; a burned receptacle mimics switch failure.
Compatible Models (Sample)
This part is listed for 3183 Kenmore models in our fitment data. Always confirm your exact model number on the appliance's rating plate.
Replaces or is replaced by: 316021501, 5304506425
Repair Difficulty and Time
Difficulty: Moderate. Typical time: 30 to 60 minutes.
Frequently Asked Questions
Which ranges use surface element switch 316436001?
It is listed for Kenmore ranges such as the 79094229407 and 79094432701 and Frigidaire-built models including the FEFL77ASH, among thousands of others.
My old switch was 316021501. Is this the correct replacement?
Yes. 316436001 replaces 316021501 and 5304506425.
Do the terminals on the new switch match the old one?
Yes. The terminals carry the same markings. Move each wire to the terminal with the same letter as on the old switch.
Can I test the switch before replacing it?
With power off, a meter across the line and element terminals should show continuity that changes as you turn the knob. No change means the switch is bad.
Final Checklist
- Breaker off and confirmed dead with a meter
- Backguard cover removed
- Knob pulled and failed switch identified
- Old switch wiring photographed and labeled
- Wires moved one at a time to 316436001
- New switch screwed in with the shaft oriented correctly
- Knob and cover refitted
- Element tested from low to high