How to Install Drain Hose WPY913158 in a Whirlpool Dishwasher
Quick answer: Cut power and water, remove the toe kick, ease the dishwasher forward, release the clamp at the drain pump outlet, pull the old hose through the cabinet wall, fit WPY913158 onto the pump barb, run it up in a high loop under the counter to the disposal or air gap, clamp it and run a drain test.
Drain hose WPY913158 carries the used wash water from the drain pump at the bottom of the tub out to the sink drain, air gap or garbage disposal. It fits the older Maytag, Jenn-Air and Whirlpool built-in dishwashers such as DWU9906BAE, CDU600V, DW701B and DU2000W, and our fitment data lists it for 40 models. On machines this age the original rubber hose hardens, cracks at the pump end and splits along the corrugations, so the first symptom is usually a slow leak under the sink or water left in the tub after the cycle.
Replacing it is mostly an access job: the pump connection sits low at the front of the machine and the sink connection is under the counter, so you spend the time on your knees rather than fighting the part. Measure the old hose before you start so you know how much of the new one to trim, and plan the high loop before you push the machine back.
See part details and every compatible model: WPY913158
- Turn off the dishwasher breaker and test the control before you remove any panel.
- Close the hot water shutoff under the sink so the supply line can be loosened if the machine must come out further.
- Wear gloves; the old hose holds stale water and the area around the pump often has sharp sheet metal edges.
- Do not run the machine until both clamps are tight and the hose has a loop above the drain connection.
Tools and Parts You Need
- Phillips and flat screwdrivers
- Nut driver set for the toe kick, mounting brackets and hose clamps
- Hose clamp pliers or slip-joint pliers
- Shallow pan, sponge and towels
- Flashlight
- Zip tie or hose clip for the high loop
Step-by-Step Installation
- Power down and empty the tub Switch off the breaker, close the water valve and remove the lower rack. Sponge water out of the sump so the pump connection does not flood the floor when you open it.
- Open the front Remove the toe kick panel and any insulation strip below the door. Unscrew the brackets that anchor the dishwasher to the counter and back off the leveling legs slightly if it is tight in the opening.
- Free the sink end Under the sink, loosen the clamp at the disposal inlet or air gap and slide the old hose off into your pan. Note how the hose was routed through the cabinet wall and whether a grommet is fitted.
- Reach the pump Slide the dishwasher forward a few inches until you can see the drain pump outlet at the bottom front of the tub. Keep the supply line and cord slack; disconnect them if they pull tight.
- Remove the old hose Squeeze the spring clamp at the pump outlet, walk it up the hose, then twist and pull the hose off the barb. Draw the old hose back into the dishwasher opening and out of the cabinet hole.
- Fit WPY913158 to the pump Push the new hose fully onto the pump outlet until it bottoms against the shoulder, set the clamp over the barbed section, and seat the hose in any frame clips so it is off the floor and away from the motor.
- Route, loop and connect Feed the hose through the cabinet wall, fasten it as high as possible under the countertop with a zip tie, then trim it to length if needed and clamp it onto the disposal or air gap. Confirm the disposal knockout has been removed.
- Drain test, then push back Restore water and power, run a short cycle and watch both connections during the drain. When they stay dry, slide the machine home, re-anchor the brackets, level it and refit the toe kick.
Fit Checks Before You Call the Job Done
- The hose sits fully home on the pump barb and the clamp is over the barb, not on the smooth section beyond it.
- There is no kink where the hose turns behind the leveling leg or passes through the cabinet wall.
- The high point of the loop is fastened under the counter, above the disposal or sink drain connection.
- After a full drain, no water remains in the tub other than a thin film in the sump and nothing is wet under the sink.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Routing the hose flat along the floor A hose without a high loop lets sink water siphon back into the tub. On these older machines that shows up as a dirty puddle in the tub every morning.
Forgetting to check the disposal inlet If the disposal is newer than the dishwasher, its inlet plug may still be in place. Check it before you blame the pump for a machine that will not drain.
Forcing a cold, stiff hose onto the barb Warm the hose end in hot tap water for a minute so it slides on without splitting. A split end leaks under the clamp no matter how tight you make it.
Pushing the machine back before testing Always run a drain cycle with the dishwasher pulled out. Finding a drip at the pump after the toe kick and brackets are back on doubles the job.
Troubleshooting After Installation
Water remains in the tub after the cycle Check for a kink behind the machine, a blocked air gap cap or a disposal knockout still in place. Then confirm the pump hums during the drain phase.
Drip at the pump connection Pull the machine out, remove the clamp and inspect the hose end for a split. Reseat it fully on the barb and centre the clamp before retesting.
Wet spot under the sink Tighten the clamp at the disposal or air gap and make sure the hose is not chafing on the cabinet hole. Fit a grommet if the metal edge is bare.
Care Tips After the Repair
- Run the disposal briefly before each dishwasher cycle so the inlet stays clear.
- Check under the sink every few months for damp cabinet floor near the hose clamp.
- Clean the air gap cap when you clean the filter screen; a blocked air gap backs water up into the hose.
Compatible Models (Sample)
This part is listed for 40 Whirlpool models in our fitment data. Always confirm your exact model number on the appliance's rating plate.
Repair Difficulty and Time
Difficulty: Moderate. Typical time: 45 to 75 minutes.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is WPY913158 long enough to reach a disposal on the far side of the sink cabinet?
It is supplied at a standard length that suits most installs. Measure the old route before ordering; if you need more reach, connect through an air gap or an approved extension rather than stretching the hose.
Which dishwashers use this hose?
It is listed for older Maytag, Jenn-Air and Whirlpool built-ins including DWU9906BAE, CDU600V, DW701B, DW701W, CDU250B and DU2000W. Confirm the model number on the door frame label.
Do I need a new clamp?
Reuse the original spring clamp only if it still snaps firmly shut. If it has lost tension, fit a stainless worm clamp of the same diameter at the pump end.
Final Checklist
- Breaker off, water off, sump sponged dry
- Toe kick and counter brackets removed, machine eased forward
- Old hose released at the sink end and the pump barb
- New hose fully seated on the pump with the clamp on the barb
- High loop fastened under the counter, knockout removed
- Drain cycle run and both joints dry
- Machine anchored, leveled and toe kick refitted