How to Install Dishwasher Drain Hose WP99002652 in a Whirlpool Dishwasher

Quick answer: Kill power and water, pull the dishwasher out a few inches, remove the toe panel, release the spring clamp at the drain pump outlet, route WP99002652 with a high loop under the counter, clamp it at the pump and the disposal or air gap, then run a drain cycle and check for drips.

Drain hose WP99002652 is the corrugated line that carries dirty water from the drain pump under the tub of a Whirlpool dishwasher out to the garbage disposal, air gap or sink drain. When it cracks, kinks or wears through where it passes the cabinet wall, you get a puddle under the sink after every cycle, standing water in the tub, or a drain error on the control.

This guide covers the full replacement on the Maytag-built Whirlpool models that use this hose, such as MDB8951BWS41, MDB8851AWS10 and ADB2500AWS40; the part is listed for 31 models in our fitment data. Expect to slide the machine partway out, work from the front at floor level, and spend some time under the sink. No special tools are needed, but a helper makes moving the dishwasher easier.

See part details and every compatible model: WP99002652

⚠️ Safety First
  • Switch off the dishwasher breaker and confirm the control panel is dead before touching any panel or wiring.
  • Close the hot water valve under the sink and relieve pressure before loosening the supply line.
  • The drain hose holds dirty water and the pump area may have broken glass; wear work gloves and eye protection.
  • Protect the floor with cardboard when sliding the dishwasher out so the feet do not gouge the finish.

Tools and Parts You Need

  • Phillips and flat screwdrivers
  • Nut driver or socket set for the toe panel and mounting screws
  • Needle-nose pliers or hose clamp pliers for the spring clamp
  • Adjustable wrench for the supply line fitting
  • Shallow pan, sponge and several old towels
  • Flashlight or headlamp

Step-by-Step Installation

  1. Shut down and clear the tub Turn off the breaker, close the water valve, and remove the lower rack. Sponge any standing water out of the sump so it does not pour onto the floor when the hose comes off.
  2. Remove the toe panel and free the machine Unscrew the lower access panel and insulation strip. Remove the two mounting screws that hold the dishwasher to the underside of the counter, and lower the leveling legs slightly if the top rubs.
  3. Disconnect at the sink Under the sink, loosen the clamp at the disposal inlet or air gap and slide the old hose off. Have the pan ready because the loop will drain as soon as it comes loose.
  4. Slide the dishwasher out Pull the unit forward just far enough to reach the drain pump at the bottom front, making sure the supply line and power cable have slack.
  5. Release and remove the old hose Squeeze the spring clamp at the pump outlet with pliers, slide it up, twist the hose off the nipple, then feed the old hose back through the hole in the cabinet wall. Keep any grommet in the wall for the new hose.
  6. Install WP99002652 at the pump Push the new hose fully onto the pump outlet, seat the spring clamp over the barbed section, and clip the hose back into the frame clips so it does not rest on the floor or touch the motor.
  7. Route the high loop and connect Thread the hose through the cabinet wall, fasten it as high as possible under the counter with a zip tie or clip, then slide it onto the disposal or air gap fitting and tighten the clamp. Remove the knockout plug if this is a new disposal.
  8. Test before you push it home Restore water and power, run a short cycle and let it drain while you watch the pump joint and the sink connection with a flashlight. Only then slide the machine in, re-anchor it and refit the toe panel.

Fit Checks Before You Call the Job Done

  • The hose end seats completely over the pump barb with the clamp centered on the barb, not hanging off the edge.
  • No sharp bends or flattened sections where the hose passes through the cabinet wall or behind the leveling legs.
  • The high loop is fastened to the underside of the counter, higher than the point where the hose enters the disposal or air gap.
  • The hose clears the drain pump motor, the heating element wiring and any sharp sheet metal edges.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Skipping the high loop Without a loop above the connection point, dirty sink water siphons back into the tub and the pump works against a full hose. This is the most common reason a new hose still leaves water in the machine.

Leaving the disposal knockout in place New disposals ship with a plug in the dishwasher inlet. If it is not knocked out, the machine cannot drain and the pump may be blamed for a hose that is simply blocked.

Reusing a stretched spring clamp A clamp that has lost its tension will weep at the pump joint. Compare the old clamp to the new one and use whichever grips tighter, or fit a stainless worm clamp.

Cutting the hose too short Trim the hose only after it is routed and looped, leaving enough slack to pull the dishwasher out for future service.

Troubleshooting After Installation

Water still stands in the tub after the cycle Check that the disposal knockout was removed, the hose has no kink behind the machine, and the air gap cap is clear of debris. Then confirm the pump runs by listening during the drain phase.

Drip at the pump connection Pull the machine back out, remove the clamp and check the hose end for a split from forcing it on. Reseat the hose fully, put the clamp on the barb, and wipe the joint dry before retesting.

Dirty water flows back into the dishwasher The high loop is missing or has sagged. Re-fasten it directly under the countertop, and clean the disposal so it is not backing up into the inlet.

Care Tips After the Repair

  • Run the disposal for a few seconds before starting the dishwasher so the inlet is clear.
  • Scrape plates but leave the pre-rinse to the machine; heavy grease coats the hose interior over time.
  • Check under the sink for damp spots every few months, especially around the clamp at the disposal.

Compatible Models (Sample)

This part is listed for 31 Whirlpool models in our fitment data. Always confirm your exact model number on the appliance's rating plate.

Repair Difficulty and Time

Difficulty: Moderate. Typical time: 45 to 90 minutes.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do I have to pull the dishwasher all the way out?

No. A few inches is usually enough to reach the pump at the bottom front. Only remove it fully if the hose is trapped behind the frame or the cabinet hole is hard to reach.

Can I connect WP99002652 directly to the sink drain without an air gap?

Many areas allow a high loop instead of an air gap, but some codes require the air gap. Check local requirements; either way, keep the loop as high as possible under the counter.

Which models use this drain hose?

It is listed for Whirlpool and Maytag built-ins such as MDB8951BWS41, MDB8851AWS10, MDB4651AWB3 and MDB6702AWQ0. Confirm your model number on the door edge label before ordering.

Final Checklist

  • Breaker off, water valve closed, tub sponged dry
  • Old hose released at the disposal or air gap and at the pump
  • New hose seated on the pump barb with the clamp centered
  • High loop fastened under the counter above the connection point
  • Disposal knockout removed and clamp tightened
  • Drain cycle run and both joints checked dry
  • Dishwasher slid in, anchored, leveled and toe panel refitted

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